Colmar - Gem of the Alsace Region

Colmar is a well-preserved jewel of the Alsace Region of France. Even through the changing of rulers from independent town to being dominated by Germany or France, Colmar has adapted while keeping its own identity. Today the oldest part of the town is pedestrian friendly and well worth a visit.

Begin your visit to Colmar with a visit to the Unterlinden Museum. Formerly a Dominical Convent, the museum today is one of the most visited museums in France outside Paris. It has a rich collection of German Primitive Art, but as you explore the paintings, you will find the beginnings of change in content from a rigid form to an exploration of other methods and subjects. The crown jewel of the museum is the Issenheim Altar with it richly carved panels. These represent the Crucifixion, Annunciation, and Resurrection of Christ. The original panels are shown in a fixed position, but, in the corridor, you will find a working model of the Altar. It is worth stopping and moving the panels to get a feeling for the true richness of the artwork and how it must have contributed to early religious experience.

Across the street from the Unterlinden Museum is the tourist office. They have a good map of the central region of Colmar and can offer advice on what to see. The guidebook has walks through the town and information on what to see. I was there on different days and there was always someone who could speak English.

Across the square from the museum is the tourist train. It is well worth the price to take the train. You will get a good idea of the sights to see in Colmar. In addition the anecdotes by the driver (in several languages) make the trip worthwhile.

Many of the old houses of Colmar have been preserved. Everywhere you walk in this area you will find uniquely constructed and colored half-timbered houses. Styles vary and look especially at the roofs. As you wander you will find the house of Auguste Bartholdi, creator of the Statue of Liberty. Along the canal, the color of the houses were regulated in the Middle Ages. Each color denoted the owner's occupation.

There are many restaurants in Colmar, and it is impossible to find one where the food in not excellent. You can eat outside in the Place in front of the museum and watch the crowds. Another good restaurant is near the situated on the Canal, on the same side of the river as where the Canal Tours start but across the bridge.

The small boats that take the tourists up and down the canal provide a space of quiet and coolness. Because houses back on the canal the sounds of traffic are diminished. The guides are proficient in at least French, German, and English, and the commentary is interesting. Look for the swan house and an example of Bauhaus architecture. The trees and gardens that back on the canal keep it cool even on the hottest days.

Colmar is easily reached by train from Paris' Gare de l'Est, going through Strasbourg or Mulhouse (pronounced something like Mul-oose). Colmar is close enough to Strasbourg for a day trip. It's about a 30-minute train ride. Once free of Paris, driving to Colmar is easy, although, especially during the busy tourist season, parking could be a problem.
Article courtesy of Constance Montague